6″ FALSE BOTTOM ADAPTER KIT = MALE = Fitting Kit Plumbing for Igloo Cooler Mash Tun or Brew Kettle

$9.95

Hears a fitting kit to plumb your false bottom to the ball valve sticking out inside your brew kettle or mash tun.  This kit is all food grade made from high temp silicone tubing and Stainless Steel only.  There is no brass or galvanized steel. Includes a special Female 1/2″ NPT Stainless Steel 3/8″ barb, 6″ of 3/8″ High Temp Tubing and two stainless steel worm clamps.  Will plumb a false bottom up to 15″.  This kit will plumb 98% of all false bottoms needing a female end to connect to the tun or kettle hardware.  The included special Female (FPT) barb eliminates the need for a coupler and helps deal with a certain ball valve problem ‘not enough thread left’ to get the coupler on.  This kit is also available in Male.

175 in stock

SKU: FALSE_BOTTOM_KIT_MALE Category:

Description

  • Plumb your false bottom to the ball valve sticking out inside your brew kettle or mash tun.
  • Includes a special stainless steel female 1/2″ NPT X 3/8″ barb, 6″ of 3/8″ high temp tubing, and two stainless steel worm clamps.
  • Will plumb 98% of false bottoms up to 15″.
  • Kit is all food grade made from high temp silicone tubing and Stainless Steel only.
  • Tubing is our heavy weight MADE IN USA high temp silicone. All other components 304 stainless steel.

This kit will plumb 98% of all false bottoms needing a female end to connect to the tun or kettle hardware.  The included special Female (FPT) barb eliminates the need for a coupler and helps deal with a certain ball valve problem ‘not enough thread left’ to get the coupler on.  This kit is also available in Male.

BACKGROUND:  A concave or ‘dome’ type false bottom comes bare with only the 3/8″ barb, elbow, nut, and gasket pre-assembled.  It does not have the plumbing kit with it.  This is that kit and fills your need for a short length (6″ ought to do it) of silicone tubing to go between the barb in the center of the false bottom and your cooler or kettle side hardware.  Most likely you will also need a 1/2″ X 3/8″ barb fitting to match, so we bundle them together in this kit.  We can’t tell what the exact situation will be inside your project so we have a variety of solutions.  We sell the parts individually if you need them, see our store!

TIPS:

Aside from the one nut touching the cooler, the inside plumbing components don’t really need to be taped or even torqued down.  Just thread them on there a couple spins by hand so you can take them apart easily to clean the unit.  Be sure to use our stainless steel clamps rather than galvanized, although you might find you don’t need clamps at all if your heat rated tubing is tight enough.  If it loosens over time you will have to replace it or start using the clamps.

One of the problems you may encounter is getting too much grain underneath the false bottom.  This can cause problems with draining.  One of the major causes is crushing the grain too finely.  Try not to set your mill below .039.  You can fix this by using a half pound or more of rice hulls which will further filter and channel the grain.  Rice Hulls are needed for most wheat recipes.

Stirring can disturb the bottom causing it to float up and grain get underneath, so when you stir avoid disturbing the False Bottom.

Low mash temperature will make the dough thicker as temperatures drop resulting in poor runoff.  Try to sparge at mash-out temps.  If you get too many grain fragments after you drain,  you can let it cool and settle then rack off the clear stuff with a siphon (leaving the muck on the bottom for further straining), drain through a screen filter, or just pour the clear stuff off through a screen.  Description refers to brew kettles, coolers, false bottoms and beer which are not included.

Additional information

Weight 4 oz
Dimensions 9 × 6 × 1 in
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